McCall’s M6404 – muslin for the Temperley knock-off

Remember when I rambled on about this pair of jeans from Alice Temperley? And how I mused if I could make something similar?

Well, I did eventually find a stretchy cotton sateen:

Cotton sateen leopard print

This was from fabric.com, which means it was initially reasonably priced, shipping and customs, however, made this probably the most expensive fabric I’ve purchased so far. That’s the global market for you ;)

I used the patter mentioned in the previous post, McCall’s M6404:

McCall’s M6404

I thought view C (that’s to the far right) is pretty close, with the leg insets.

Since this pattern is put together from various pieces, you only need a relatively short length of fabric, and I had quite a bit left over from the last Jalie jeans, and a full 3 yards of the leopard print, so I decided to make a half-cat muslin, so to speak.

I knew I needed to make a muslin, as leggins and I have issues. There, I said it. My particular body shape means that anything high-waisted usually comes to rest where I’m widest, which is neither comfortable nor a good look.

That, in combination with my sway back, results in all sorts of weird fit and fabric excess where you don’t need it (the waistband tends to travel down), and not enough coverage where you do want it (the back often tends to turn wedgie, if you know what I mean).

So I decided to swap the elastic for a side zip, and lower the waistband (are these technically still leggins, with a zip instead of elastic?). By a full 3 inches. If I had an angel on my shoulder, it would have stopped whispering and started the full yelling attack at that point. I wouldn’t have listened, tho, I had measured the crotch length and was pretty confident in this hack.

Cutting went smoothly, and I started to put the leg pieces together. Can I just use this moment and rant a bit about seam allowances? Why in the name of science is 5/8 inches considered a good seam allowance? I strongly prefer much less, maybe half of that … however, so I noticed that a few things didn’t line up straight, which was because I had ignored the seam allowance. I went back and re-did the seams with the full 5/8.

Seam allowance. Twice.

Now things lined up nicely. I top stitched all seams as directed. It was at that point that I really noticed that my two fabrics didn’t go as well together as I had imagined.

While pretty light weight, the denim was still a good bit sturdier than the cotton sateen.

Not very similar …

Not being fazed, and keeping in mind this was mostly a muslin, I proceeded. The big surprise came when I did my first try on. Mostly, the fit wasn’t too bad, really.

The knees looked rather baggy, because of the different properties of the two fabrics. That wasn’t too bad, though.

What was really bad was the back … barely covering my arse. So, Little Angel, make yourself heard next time, don’t feel shy about it. I pondered how I could save the trousers, and decided to put a back yoke in. Which would be good anyways, as it could be used to deal with the sway back.

McCalls M6404 back yoke

As you can see, I tapered the yoke to nothing at the sides, as the height of the front piece was good. And what can I say? This solved the problem rather neatly. After I had taken the back seam in another 2 inches (I fiddled with this a bit more, but only have this photo from early on in the process):

McCalls M6404 muslin back seam

McCalls M6404 muslin back seam

Behold – the back of my new jeggins:

McCall’s M6404 muslin back

The front isn’t too bad, either:

McCall's M6404 muslin front

McCall’s M6404 muslin front

And yes, they are a tad short. That’s highly fashionable, and called “cropped trousers”, the fashion pages of the Guardian say. Might have to get some ankle boots now.

However, after having hacked most of it, I now think that my actual leopard trousers will be a frankenpattern: the top from my beloved Jalie jeans, and the legs including the piecing from this McCall’s pattern.

What says you, dear Readers?

5 thoughts on “McCall’s M6404 – muslin for the Temperley knock-off

  1. I had a jeggins phase a little while back and these are amazing. As they dont have a fly i think jeggins is still ok … sorry if i am messing with the definition lol.
    I love the fit! considering u just hacked it it turned out so amazingly! I like them being part cat too! I think it makes them better than the original inspiration. :P amazing wither way! :D

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