The endless story continues … another Jalie Jeans

Writing this post is totally my way of procrastinating. I feel like I should be doing a million other things, as you do before a move, but since I actually have the luxury of being moved by a professional removal company who’ll also pack my things, there really is mostly cleaning left. And let me tell you, I’m not keen on that.

So instead I decided before I won’t have access to my sewing machine for weeks I’d finish the already cut Jalie in dark purple corduroy that was drifting around my living room.

I’d made a few changes to the pattern, in the hopes of getting rid of my under-bum-wrinkles issue, as can be seen here:

Temperley knock-off back
Temperley knock-off back

For this, I recruited the help of a couple of fitting books (well, all of the books on fitting I own, actually).

What I did in detail was to remove about an inch on the inner back seam, and adding that on the outside seam. That mostly did the trick, but there’s still a way to go before I can say this is my perfectly fitting jeans, alas.

Purple cords back
Purple cords back

The corduroy I used doesn’t have the tiniest amount of stretch, which makes the whole jeans a tad too tight, but since I’m determined to loose those last 10 pounds I’ve been struggling with these past few months, that should be fine soon.

What feels to me like my biggest achievement is the near perfect fly I managed. Not without a hitch, of course … I put the fly guard on the wrong side and had to rip it out and move it to the other side. Ah, well.

Near perfect fly
Near perfect fly

And because it’s a tad too tight, the lovely vintage button I put on it first broke ๐Ÿ˜ฆ

Broken button
Broken button

You can see it on the jeans here:

Purple Jeans front
Purple Jeans front

It’s a bit sad, as the colour went well with the back pocket detail:

Back pocket detail
Back pocket detail

But the new button, also out of my stash of vintage buttons, is pretty, too:

 

Old vs. New
Old vs. New

I’ve put some nice flowers in the front pockets – and realized only during my final fitting session that I’d forgotten to top-stitch them! I guess that should teach me not to sew when I’ve got my mind on other things … but then, it made for a perfectly relaxed New Years Day.

Purple jeans pockets
Purple jeans pockets

And that was my first make in 2013. I don’t know how long it will take to find a place to live, and get my things set up and all, sigh. I hate being up in the air like this, I’m a creature of routine and really don’t deal well with having none at all.

Ah, well … it’s only going to be a few more weeks, and then I’ll be living in the glorious sunshine and be coping with a new job and getting to know my new collegues, so overall it’s all great. I just wished I was a few steps further in the process.

Happy New Year to you, and may it bring whatever you wish for!!

 

 

 

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Silver Needles P45 – Lady’s Jacket: the beginning

This was supposed to be the muslin of the “real” jacket I want to make. By now, though, I’ve come to the conclusion that this needs to turn out wearable, and if it does, the way I imagine, it should be The Jacket.

Because I kinda fell in love with the gabardine, which sat pretty unloved in my stash for about a year. If memory serves, I bought it to make something I could wear for work interviews, and worst case scenario, later on to work (in my line of work, the dress code is usually casual, sometimes business casual).

When I finally got started today, I smartly decided to sew up the lining first, in the hopes that I could discover and ideally fix any major fitting issues right away.

And what a good choice that was! It turned out the the sleeve caps were far too high, and didn’t fit the armscyes at all. I sewed in one with some on-the-fly easing, and gathered the other – both looked abysmal. Also, the shoulders drooped a tad too low, and of course, I needed a square shoulder adjustment.

Now, on the lining, I’m not going to be picky. But the armscyes were a tad too tight, and that doesn’t bode well for a jacket you might want to layer over a cardigan.

So I rather unorthodoxly cut one of the sleeves out, hence widening the armscye by a tad less than an inch, and hacked off about 3 inches from the sleeve cap. The sleeve now fit like a dream.

A tad fuzzy, but you can see that one shoulder fits much better than the other, non?

Hence I repeated the procedure on the second sleeve, and now it’s mostly great, except for the gaping on the shoulder seams closest to the neck. I left that, as I assume I can fudge it when I put the lining in and nobody is going to see it.

If you look closely, you can see the gaposis on my shoulders.

I then proceeded to transfer my changes onto the paper pattern (I had held off on cutting the outer fabric to see the fit of my lining first).

My camera was playing tricks on me ๐Ÿ˜€ Also, no make up – oh, the horror!

What I did:

  • lower the top of the sleeve cap
  • take in the shoulder seamย  ~ 1 inch
  • add ~ 1inch on top of the armscye (square shoulders)
So, I was to lazy to draw a new pattern. I used sello tape. Go ahead, judge me … ๐Ÿ˜›

Then I proceeded to cut my out fabric. Tomorrow I’ll start putting it together, and we’ll see if my changes were successful.

Lowered the sleeve cap

I do feel a tad nervous, as my slap-dash approach made it a bit hard to know exactly how much change was needed, and I’m not entirely sure the sleeves still fit the armscye (I did measure them about 5 times, and those numbers say they should).

Wish me luck!

PS. Sorry that some of you saw an unfinished draft of this! Clearly, I sometimes have trouble clicking the right buttons … ๐Ÿ˜ฆ

You could call it sewing …

… but it wasn’t.

Gingham shirt – placket detail

In fact, all I did this week was finally put some buttons on the second make of Simplicity 2447. These are not the buttons I thought I’d use – I chickened out, and got some press fasteners instead. To be fair, these had been my first choice, but it took me a while to find them online – in the end, I got them at Jaycotts, as I should have known I would ๐Ÿ˜€

Gingham shirt front

I think I like how it turned out, but now, looking closely, there’s still some weird wrinkling going on. The diagonal lines on the front don’t bother me, but the ones around the armscye might need closer investigation.

The most noticeable change I made was to the collar – I left off the collar, and just turned the collar band into a mandarin collar, which I like SO.MUCH.MORE.

Gingham shirt – back

There’s more wrinkle action going on in the back … not too bad, tho. Definitely wearable ๐Ÿ™‚ In fact, it’s on my back while I write this.

This has come a long way from the first, not-so-wearable muslin, and I’m happy with my new short-sleeve gingham shirt. Now all I need are a pair of snakeskin boots to go with it. Right?