The Temperley knock-off is done. It’s been mostly a success – there are a few minor details that could be better (like, you know, the fit) but overall I’m pretty happy with how it turned out and expect this to become a pair of trousers I’ll be wearing quite a bit in Summer.
The next photo is a bit blurry, for which I do apologize, but I like the posture, so I’ll torture your eyes with it anyways:
Although I used the same size I used for the black jeans, which fits like a glove, this one turned out a bit big. It’s not horribly huge, so still very wearable, but I certainly have learned a lesson about different fabrics and how that influences the fit.
Let’s look a bit closer:
As you can see, the fly front is a lot better than last time. For starters, it’s the right way around \o/. And the actual zipper isn’t peeking out – yay! It’s still not perfect, but it’s really hard to see the imperfection with this busy fabric, so I’ll call it a success.
Those wrinkles right under my bum … I have them, to a lesser extent, in all the jeans I’ve made so far, and they will be my next fitting mission. I don’t think they’re too bad, though – or?
All in all, the frankenpatterning worked out great, and I’ve added a pair of non-boring jeans to my wardrobe – for far less than the £225 designer jeans cost. I might have to do this more often now.
What do you say – do you check out your favorite designers, and if you see a totally adorable piece, try to replicate it? Is it legit?
Just in time for Halloween, I am going to create my first Frankepattern.
Although the muslin didn’t turn out too bad, and I’m pretty sure I’ll be making another pair of trousers with a side zip out of McCalls 6404, with slightly modified legs, I decided to go a different route for my Temperley knock-off.
So I pulled out my TNT Jalie jeans pattern, and put it on the table with the leg pieces from the McCalls. At that point it dawned on me that maybe the ballooning in the knees I noticed in the muslin (like here) wasn’t all my fault for combining different fabrics.
In fact, the pattern is much wider in the leg than my Jalie pattern, especially noticeable in the knee area.
So I graded the pattern to fit the Jalie measures in the thigh, and took out ~1.5 inches in the knee area.
Now all I got left to do is sew it up.
Do you think I should have stuck with the welt zipper pockets? I quite like the slanted jeans pockets, and I know that I never use zipper pockets (in my mind, they bunch up and create lumps on the outside) – but I’m still not entirely sure if they’re essential for the look?
Remember when I rambled on about this pair of jeans from Alice Temperley? And how I mused if I could make something similar?
Well, I did eventually find a stretchy cotton sateen:
This was from fabric.com, which means it was initially reasonably priced, shipping and customs, however, made this probably the most expensive fabric I’ve purchased so far. That’s the global market for you 😉
I used the patter mentioned in the previous post, McCall’s M6404:
I thought view C (that’s to the far right) is pretty close, with the leg insets.
Since this pattern is put together from various pieces, you only need a relatively short length of fabric, and I had quite a bit left over from the last Jalie jeans, and a full 3 yards of the leopard print, so I decided to make a half-cat muslin, so to speak.
I knew I needed to make a muslin, as leggins and I have issues. There, I said it. My particular body shape means that anything high-waisted usually comes to rest where I’m widest, which is neither comfortable nor a good look.
That, in combination with my sway back, results in all sorts of weird fit and fabric excess where you don’t need it (the waistband tends to travel down), and not enough coverage where you do want it (the back often tends to turn wedgie, if you know what I mean).
So I decided to swap the elastic for a side zip, and lower the waistband (are these technically still leggins, with a zip instead of elastic?). By a full 3 inches. If I had an angel on my shoulder, it would have stopped whispering and started the full yelling attack at that point. I wouldn’t have listened, tho, I had measured the crotch length and was pretty confident in this hack.
Cutting went smoothly, and I started to put the leg pieces together. Can I just use this moment and rant a bit about seam allowances? Why in the name of science is 5/8 inches considered a good seam allowance? I strongly prefer much less, maybe half of that … however, so I noticed that a few things didn’t line up straight, which was because I had ignored the seam allowance. I went back and re-did the seams with the full 5/8.
Now things lined up nicely. I top stitched all seams as directed. It was at that point that I really noticed that my two fabrics didn’t go as well together as I had imagined.
While pretty light weight, the denim was still a good bit sturdier than the cotton sateen.
Not being fazed, and keeping in mind this was mostly a muslin, I proceeded. The big surprise came when I did my first try on. Mostly, the fit wasn’t too bad, really.
The knees looked rather baggy, because of the different properties of the two fabrics. That wasn’t too bad, though.
What was really bad was the back … barely covering my arse. So, Little Angel, make yourself heard next time, don’t feel shy about it. I pondered how I could save the trousers, and decided to put a back yoke in. Which would be good anyways, as it could be used to deal with the sway back.
As you can see, I tapered the yoke to nothing at the sides, as the height of the front piece was good. And what can I say? This solved the problem rather neatly. After I had taken the back seam in another 2 inches (I fiddled with this a bit more, but only have this photo from early on in the process):
Behold – the back of my new jeggins:
The front isn’t too bad, either:
And yes, they are a tad short. That’s highly fashionable, and called “cropped trousers”, the fashion pages of the Guardian say. Might have to get some ankle boots now.
However, after having hacked most of it, I now think that my actual leopard trousers will be a frankenpattern: the top from my beloved Jalie jeans, and the legs including the piecing from this McCall’s pattern.